There's a bewildering array of well marketed tackle around, and if you pick up any magazine you'll be led to think that you need the latest/greatest kit just to be able to turn up at a water! Also people can be led into thinking you have to have really strong gear to land a carp, which is not necessarily the case. Just balance your kit to the water you're going to be fishing.
Rods
If you are going to invest any money in one piece of kit, then I think the rods are the most important item. Buy a decent rod now, and it'll last for years. One thing I think lots of people get wrong is in the type of rod they buy. Walk around any small water and you'll see loads of 3lb+ test curve fast taper rods being used, often when people are fishing less than 50yds out. Combine this with big pit reels and you can maybe see why some people lose so many fish. Let's expand on that.
Test curve - This is the amount of pressure needed to bend the tip of to the butt, although some of the more specialist rods are quoted in°the rod 90 casting weight rather than test curve (as are sea rods). Don't confuse this with how much pressure you can exert on a fish.
Taper - This is the way we describe how the rod bends, roughly speaking a through action/slow taper rod will (should!) bend in a nice progressive bend, right through to the handle. They are the nicest rods to play fish on, but they wont be able to cast as far or as accurately as a Fast action/fast taper rod. This will primarily just bend to around the top third.
Rods are the most important item Dave says
This will give the best casting performance (in the right hands), and the best accuracy, but you will have to be more careful when playing fish. As always, there are exceptions to the rule. For example, if you are going to do a lot of 'Method' or PVA fishing at range, where you are casting heavy, fragile baits, you'll find a through action rod will give you more distance than a fast taper rod - this is why pike anglers deadbait rods are through action.
You also have to take into account the quality of the rod. To achieve the best distances, you need to have a good tip recovery. This means the rod will go from being bent to straight quickly, without the tip wobbling about. This used to be achieved by having very stiff rods, whereas these days its achieved by using higher quality materials - the very best of which are only obtainable by British or American firms as they are classed as weapons grade! But by and large, this is only really an issue when fishing at the extreme end of distance. Also, some of the better rods manage to give the best of both worlds - the ability to cast a long way, but still be responsive under the tip - but these wont come cheap! The other thing to bear in mind if you are fishing bigger waters it that a higher test curve doesn't necessarily mean more distance. Most people will be able to cast a 2¾lb test curve rod further than a 3½lb rod of the same design - unless you have the right technique. Just look at how many nearly new Century FMJ's you see on the second hand market!
If you are just starting, or are going to be just 'dabbling' at carp on small/medium sized waters, then a through action rod of 2½ or 2¾ lb test curve will be far more pleasurable, and far easier to use than a top end casting machine. You should have no trouble casting a bait 100yds, and be able to fish bags or feeders at medium range. It will be much nicer to play the fish on as well, which after all is what it's all about!
Reels
I would recommend a free spool reel (or a Baitrunner reel as they are popularly known, but it should be pointed out that only Shimano's can officially be called Baitrunners as they own the patent rights to the term). I use free spool reels for most of my carp fishing. The reason for this is that I don't think most people (me included) really need big pit reels for the vast majority of the time.
Baitrunner (free spool) reel
Free Spool reels have the advantage of putting you instantly in control of the reel, the lever that you click over to engage the system will disengage as you turn the reel. You normally have a rear mounted drag, which makes adjustment easy, and they are usually lighter than big pits.
The Big pit reel's main advantage is that due to the deeper, wider spools they allow you to fish at range with thicker lines than the smaller spools - which is only really an issue at 80yds or more - due to the level of the line dropping less on the cast. Also they tend to have a front mounted drag system, which tends to be more accurate than the rear drags. Most lack a free spool facility though, and adjusting the clutch to allow the fish to take line on the take - especially if you get a drop back - can take a vital extra second or two. The Shimano 'Big Baitrunner' and the Daiwa XBR5500's do have a free spool system, but both reels are fairly hefty. Mind you, whether this matters when the rods are in the rests most of the time is debatable.
Big Pit Reels
As with rods, you do get what you pay for with reels. That's not to say that you have to spend loads as there are some cracking reels, like the Okuma's, out there, but the better Daiwa and Shimano reels will last you years, or until the next shiny one catches your eye!
Line
Lines are a fairly personal thing, ask a 'which is the best' type of question and you'll get a different answer from almost everyone! The three types are:
Mono(filament) lines are made from drawn nylon, mainly by the same three or so manufacturers. They have wildly different performance in thickness, stretchiness, and abrasion resistance but each has their own use. Whilst a pre-stretched line might be good for casting due to its thinness, and control of the fish due to its lack of stretch, they don't tend to be particularly 'strong' or abrasion resistant - so would be a waste of time if fishing near snags. Likewise a strong, resilient line will be good for fishing over sharp gravel bars, but no good if that bar is 130yds out as it's probably too thick to cast! So you have to go for the best compromise. Also bear in mind that it's almost better to buy line by the diameter, rather than strength. Most manufacturers understate their breaking strain, so the 15lb line from manufacturer 'A' might break at 20lb, and from manufacturer 'B' at 16lb - but you can bet your bottom dollar the one from manufacturer 'A' is a lot thicker! Personally I like Suffix Synergy and now they seem to have sorted the quality control out, Shimano Technium - both are good 'strong' lines, and Technium has especially low stretch for its strength - though a little thick. Trilene Big Game is worth a look as it is cracking value for money, tough as old rope, but a bit thick and stretchy. Daiwa Sensor is also highly recommended.
Flourocarbon lines are in theory the 'holy grail' for most anglers - supposedly a line fish can't see! The true fluorocarbons tend to be relatively heavy so they sink well, and have low stretch for good fish control, but the problem is that it is quite a fragile material - it can literally splinter whilst rubbing against an obstruction causing it to snap quite easily. The main one on the market, X-Line, relies on its breaking strain/thickness for its abrasion resistance but this also makes it difficult to cast any sort of range due to its stiffness. It's also quite expensive! To get around this, lines like Kryston's Krystonite have been developed. These are normal lines coated with fluorocarbon to give the low visibility, but the nylon core gives them normal line type performance.
Braided lines are normally a mixture of braided fibres, although they are sometimes fused together. This gives them incredible thinness and almost no stretch, so they are ideal for fishing at huge ranges. Again, the downside can be its abrasion resistance when compared to a decent mono, but then you just use a higher breaking strain as 30lb braid can be the same thickness as 8lb mono! The disadvantage to the lack of stretch can be the possibility of hook pulls when the fish are close in, especially if used with powerful rods. You also need to be very careful to use the right type of knots with braid, or you will dramatically reduce the breaking strain.
If you can get hold of a copy of the 'Tackle Box' catalogue, they have quite an extensive test of lines in the back, comprising of thickness, knot strength, breaking strain, etc, and Dave Chilton, the boss of Kryston did an excellent article on here about knots.
A 12 or 15lb mono will be perfect for most situations. If you're not going to be fishing at huge range, leave the line a couple of millimetres below the lip of the spool when winding it on, as this will stop it spilling off if fishing very close in.
Bite Indication
There are two main types of indicators, audible and visible, and they tend to be used together. The audible type (buzzers) work in a couple of different ways, but the same end result is reached, they go "BEEP"! By and large the buzzers will tell you that a fish is already hooked and are useful as you don't have to stare at the rods for hours on end, allowing you to do all the essentials, such as watch the water for moving fish, check the prebaited margin, have a wee, cook tea, go to sleep, etc. Which means you're fishing more efficiently. The better alarms can be set to be very sensitive and can sometimes give you an indication that fish are hooked but not moving, but without giving you too many false bleeps - but its only really an issue on rock hard waters or in the winter. Which leads me to pointing out that most buzzers have an 'OFF' switch, allowing you to set the bobbins without the "BEEP"! They also don't have feelings, so they won't get too upset if you don't pull the line every hour or so just to make sure they still feel loved! Seriously though, it does annoy people
Bite alarms and hanger (bobbin) indicators
There are two main types of visible indicator these days; swingers and bobbins. Bobbins are really just a weighted clip attached to a piece of string, the string is there to stop it disappearing into the lake on the strike. When the line is pulled they go up, and if the line goes slack, they go down. Simple as that! I find them more sensitive than swingers that are attached to a swing arm that pivots by the alarm. The advantage is that they are less affected by strong wind (bobbins can swing about giving false indications) but I find them much less sensitive than the bobbins. The other types that you occasionally see are springers - bobbins attached to a flexible arm with an adjustment to allow you to alter the tension which make them probably the best indicators for extreme range fishing - and monkey climbers. I have a soft spot for these, a bobbin held captive on a needle that climb up and down the needle (we fished with open bale arms in the early days) which was great to see on those rare takes. The reason for the soft spot is probably that I've forgotten about the aggro getting the needles in the ground, the polishing of the needles after every rain shower to keep friction down, and the amount of times the bobbin had jammed on the needle meaning I missed a drop back. Great days!
Swinger Type indicators
The buzzers need something to attach to and the choice is between some type of rod-pod or single banksticks. Personally, I'd choose single sticks every time, providing I can get them in the ground, as I feel it gives me more flexibility - I can space the rods out and point them in totally different directions if need be. They tend to be more stable if snag fishing, and they are lighter and less bulky that pods. Obviously they are no good on solid concrete or staging though, which is why I have a cheap pod for when I fish the odd water where it's needed. Look for sticks that have an auger (screw) point on them as you can get them into almost anything, and they tend to be a bit more secure on loose/sandy soil.
Terminal Tackle
Let's take a look at terminal tackle - the bits that you cast out. When it comes to actually getting a fish to pick up the bait, this is the only bit that really matters.
Two types of lead, pendant and inline
Leads
There are two types of leads, inline or pendant. Inline leads have the line running through the middle of them, pendants are normally attached to a swivel. They suit different situations.
If you are fishing semi-fixed leads at medium ranges, especially when using PVA bags, then inline leads are fine. They give a nice neat lead arrangement, and if you get the right shape (I'll come back to that later), probably the best hooking potential.
Lead for clean lake beds
Due to the aerodynamics, they aren't the most accurate when casting or the best lead for distance fishing. You also have to be careful when fishing over gravel as the lead can damage the hooklink as it hits bottom, though this can be easily sorted by putting some tubing over the swivel.
Pendants are the best if you want to cast a long way, use running rigs, or when constructing 'safe' rigs - again something I'll come back to later.
Lead for sloping lake beds
When choosing leads, there are two main considerations, weight and shape. Weight for two reasons - enough weight to cast to the spot your fishing and enough weight to help prick the fish (if that's part of the setup). With the right setup 3oz is enough to cast 100yds plus, so weight is more often used to prick the fish when they pick the bait up - in theory the bigger the hook, the heavier the lead.
Lead for distance casting
The other consideration is shape - you'll find a short, dumpy lead is more efficient when it comes to pricking fish, but a long tapered lead is the best for distance. If you are fishing steep bars/shelves or in running water the 'grippa' or sea anglers watch lead would be better - choose what suits the swim you're fishing.
Swivels - Swivels are the vital link between the mainline and the hooklink. The one thing they rarely do these days is swivel as they tend to be covered in beads or bits of plastic! When choosing a swivel make sure it fits the bead/clip that protects it from the lead properly, or in the case of 'safety clips' it might stop the clip working.
Recently there have been swivels with rings attached, they allow a bit more movement in the rig, especially with stiff rigs, but I tend to use them with all hooklinks.
Hooks
Probably the single most important piece of your kit, if all the other bits are spot on, but if you've got a rubbish hook, you won't land that fish .....
Hooks: the single most important piece of your kit
There are absolutely loads of different hooks out there - most of them are very similar in design, but all will have their pros and cons.
Eye - there are three different types (four if you include spade-ends!) - In-turned, straight, and out-turned. This will relate to the angle the eye of the hook sits at, and all will have their advantages. For example, if using a knotless knot with braid, then an in-turned eye will be my choice. If tying a stiff rig with stiff nylon like ESP's bristle then an out-turned eye may be the choice - you just have to look at the way you want the rig to sit.
Shank - This relates to the distance between the eye and the bend of the hook and comes down to a choice between 'normal', long, and curved. Long shanks tend to be my choice when tying rigs like the 'd-rig' or blow out rigs, but I use 'normal' lengths of shank for probably 90% of my fishing. My favourite for 'tricky' fish is the curved longshank, but check the fishery rules before using them as many fisheries ban them due to concerns about the damage that can be done to smaller fish.
Bend - This will give two different things, the 'gape' of the hook and the direction of the point. The gape is the distance between the point of the hook and the shank - a wide gape hook MAY have more chance of pricking the fish, but might possibly weaken during the fight if it doesn't go all the way in during the fight. The point can be either in-turned or straight. To my way of thinking, a straight point has more chance of pricking a fish, but an in-turned point will give a better hook hold.
Hooks: either straight point or curved point
Point - The point is the bit from where the barb is (or would have been if the hook is barbless). They are either straight points or curved (beak) points. A beak point is like a cats claw, and as such will pull further into the lip if it catches. but that's the problem, it might not prick the fish as easily as a straight point, so the rig has to be designed around that. Beak points are ideal when fishing over gravel as they wont tend to lose their point as easily as a straight point.
Hooklinks - There are four main types: Mono, Stiff, Braid or Combi.
Braid - Very soft material that allows a natural presentation, will allow the bait to move around. The downside is that it is prone to tangles.
Hooklinks: choose them wisely
Mono hooklinks will normally be just the same type of line that you use for the mainline. It normally offers low visibility, some anti-eject as it's relatively stiff, and it's fairly tangle free.
Stiff - Specialist mono's that are really, well, stiff!. Ideal for creating booms for combi rigs or 'chod' rigs
Combi - These are materials like Kryston Snakebite, which is a braid encapsulated in a plastic outer skin to allow easy manufacture of combi rigs where you have a stiff boom, but a flexible bit near the hook where the skin has been stripped away - or any other combination! Originally developed to give the anti-tangle properties of mono, but with the suppleness of braid near the hook.
There are some other specialist materials like Multistrand, a hooklink made of many fine fibres that can separate in the water, which is probably the ultimate in natural presentation, but a bit of a nightmare in use as you have to be careful how you design the rig and be sure of the bottom you're fishing over. Not many use it, which is why I do!
It's also worth buying some decent rig glue (or superglue as it's more cheaply known!), bait floss (or dental floss, unwaxed and unflavoured) and some shrink tube - electricians tubing that shrinks on contact with heat.
Carp Rigs
I'M GOING TO show a couple of rigs that'll suit most situations, and the lead arrangements that I use to get them there. All of these have caught fish so it's one less thing to worry about. Most rigs are a variation on these themes.
Braid Blow-Out Rig Simply adding a tiny piece of tubing by threading it onto the hair allows you to have the hair coming off the shank or bend of the hook wherever you like, and it also adds a bit of "anti-eject" as it'll slide along if a fish tries to blow it out.
The Braid Blow-out Rig
Mono Spring Rig Again a simple "knotless knot" but make sure you wrap the line a couple of times behind the hair to make it stick out at an acute angle - should give a better chance of pricking the fish.
The Mono Spring Rig
Combi Rig Combines the best of both worlds - the suppleness of braid near the hook to help to make the bait move naturally, but with the anti-eject properties of mono.
Combi Rig
Pop-Up Rig I prefer using a ring on the shank to the "D-Rig" as I think it looks neater, its easier to tie as well. The curved shrink tube adds to the hooking properties.
Pop-Up Rig 1
Pop-Up Rig 2
Pop-Up Rig 3 - Finished Rig
Consider the makeup of the bottom, etc
When choosing which rig to use you need to consider the makeup of the bottom you are fishing over, the size of fish, and the baiting situation you are using; there is no one rig that'll suit every situation. I probably use the Combi and Mono rigs the most at around 12" in length, though I often add a "blow-back" to the combi, and tie the mono rig with a supple hair. They are a good starting point if fishing over a firm bottom, but if fishing over heavy weed/silkweed I would use a short braid rig as I feel it will sit better. Another example would be fishing with big PVA bags over gravel where I feel it better to use a shorter, stiffer hooklength - just have a little think before casting out!
I've then got four main lead arrangements
Clean Bottom Rig Simply slide on a lead, followed by a tail rubber. Tie on the swivel, pull the tail rubber over the swivel, and the lead onto the tail rubber. This will give you a semi-fixed rig that will fall apart if you need it to. If you want a more freely running rig, use a wide bore run ring (as in the rig below) but remember to make sure the ring is a bit smaller than the tail rubber!
Margins/Slopes Of Bars Very similar to the rig above, but using a "grippa" style lead to hold the slope of the margin or bar. I tend to use really slack lines as you don't want the line coming straight off the lead if you are fishing the front of the bar, though this isn't a worry if you're fishing the back of the bar. Because the line is really slack, a running rig will probably give you better indication.
The Sloping Bottom Rig
Distance
The "helicopter" or "silt" rig is perfect for distance casting. First pierce a soft rubber bead sideways and thread onto the leadcore - this will give enough bite not to move on the cast, but will slide off if needed. Then slide a ring swivel the wrong way, this will allow for free movement, and again will slide off easily. Then another bead, a length of shrink tube and tie on the lead. Pull the shrink tube over the lead's swivel and shrink to protect the knot. You can then adjust the distance you want the bait from the lead by moving the top bead. This will also give you a rig that's good for fishing over silt, or dare I say it ...Chod!
The Distance Rig
Weed Simply a safety clip with the lug cut right down and no tail rubber. If you're casting a fair way out, either tie the small tag of the lug, or the swivel of the lead to the clip with PVA to stop the lead coming off on the cast.
The Weed Rig
Fixed or running?
We refer to rigs as fixed or running - realistically I don't think that we can have a really freely running rig unless fishing at short range with a clean bottom as the line pulling through weed for instance will add a fair amount drag if you want free running so the fish doesn't know its been hooked. You also need a heavy lead to stop the lead moving, or again there will be more drag. I like running rigs as I feel the fish can't use the weight of the lead to shake the hook out.
Leadcore
You'll notice that most of the rigs shown are with leadcore. I prefer leadcore when I can use it, normally with as long a length as I can cast, as I feel it hugs the bottom better than tubing. You do need to make sure you can attach the leadcore to the mainline safely, and that all the rig components can easily slide off to prevent fish from becoming snagged.
Where I can't use leadcore, I use ESP's anchor rig tube as its incredibly heavy - heavier than most leadcores! The weed rig is shown without any tubing or leadcore, I want as little chance of anything snagging the weed, and I don't think fish are particularly aware of slack lines in weed anyway. Some people worry about mono damaging the fish during the fight, but then we never use tubing when floater fishing do we? Tubing or leadcore to me is just something to disguise the line.
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